Kwik Sew 3567

While working on another pair of Amazing Fit pants, this time in denim, I had a craving for a cosy top. So I whipped off a variation of KS 3567. While I was at it I also made a teeny tiny version out of an OOP Jalie pattern for my stepdaughter who is very tall and slim for her age. I think we'll both enjoy these tops camping this summer.

Dobby the wonderlab, who loves camping as long as there is no mosquitos, seems to agree! (or it could be just that she agrees with any activity in the kitchen, where the above pic was taken)

I've made this twice, and the lengthiest part of the process is the initial pattern tracing. I made a large, below is a version in powerdry as part of long-johns for skiing, although there is no reason why it can't be worn as a long-sleeve t shirt. I just wish it had some lycra in the fabric, alas nice technical fabric is hard to find or expensive! The leggings are from another KS pattern.

The above version is a cheap mystery poly light weight poly fleece in a grid pattern. It's a nice soft rose - for some reason it looks very bright in the photo above, but it's not in real life. I lengthened the back and side panels, and blended them in to the front for a cycling-style back to keep cosy when cycling or paddling. I also lengthened the sleeves another inch or so. Did I mention I'm 6ft tall?

One of my other passions is cooking and baking. I make my own bread, generally using the recipies from "Artisan Bread in 5 Minutes a Day". Here is a sample of a loaf, with pizza rolls lingering in the background. I'll put a link to their blog on this one, they are very generous with publishing recipies on their blog, but the cookbook is definitely worth it!

March Already!

I can't believe it's March already! January and February were busy with family, work and a ski-trip to Mte. St. Anne in Quebec. Luckily I have had a bit of time to do some sewing in the last couple of weeks. Today I made fleece tops from a Kwik Sew & Jalie pattern for me and my stepdaughter, who is a skinny four years old. They flew together from a light gridded fleece and will be great for camping. I made extra long sleeves and a back extension (like a cycling top) to keep our backs warm, it will be a great paddling top!

Anyway, I made pair of much needed pants from Simplicity 27oo, an Amazing Fit pattern. I made the Curvy size (the pattern comes with slim, average & curvy patterns) in a 16. Other than lengthening it and taking in the thighs a tad for a more contemporary silhouette, above is the result of my wearable muslin. The front looks pretty good. The instructions are excellent with a full pocket with shield, full fly with fly facing and shield. The waistband is a bit high for my taste, I will lower it and lengthen the waistband accordingly for my next pair.

The back does need some alterations, besides the telltale crotch wrinkles and I noticed when I walk the back pulls down and the front pulls up. There is an excellent fix to this exact problem in Pattern Fitting, a Multi-method approach.

My next pair will be in stretch denim for a dressy trouser-style jean.

Featherweight Score!

Behold my beautiful baby! I've been searching Craigslist for a long time now looking for a Singer Featherweight for a resonable amount of money, and this week I found one!

For $70 Cdn, this is is a Centennial model 221 in perfect working order. The serial dated puts it around 1949, and it has the "Egyptian Scrollwork" on the front. The only slight flaw is the electrical cord casing is cracked near where it plugs into the machine, but DH can easily fix that.

It is complete with case and all original attachments with the exception of the ruffler foot & manual (which can be downloaded free)

Similar models - but not Centennials - and not all in working condition go for between $250-$350 on Craigslist here, more on e-bay.

Not that I'm parting with this soon!

Burda 10-2005-114 Cowl Neck Sweater

Here is my latest creation, the oft-reviewed Burda Cowl neck sweater. I searched on e-bay for over a year looking for this magazine just for this sweater to no avail. I finally resorted to grovelling on pattern review. Melissa B. took pity on my and we traded this for a copy of one of my patterns. Thanks!

I did change the sleeves, belling them at the bottom so I could turn up a casing for a drawstring bow. I lengthened them about 3" longer than a full length sleeve so there would be some fullness when they were done. I used a twin needle for all the hemming which worked beautifully on my newly tuned up Bernina!

The fabric has been in my stash a long time. I bought it on line and it is a wool-blend jersey with a large flower print in shades of gray. It's thin and drapey and worked well for this pattern, hemmed & pressed perfectly!

Jalie 2679

Action shot: Volleyball!

Jalie 2679 is a great fleece jacket with lots of RTW detailing. It's my entry into the Patternreview Activewear contest. Jalie makes such great activewear patterns, they always look so professional! My topstitching is not up to great snuff on this one. My Bernina has gone into the shop to correct the cams which are gapping or something, adjusting the timing & for a much needed tune up (bonus, local dealer's tuneup is $69!)

This is made from some really nice printed fleece that has a water resistant treatment. I didn't buy it when it appeared at Fabricland, because it was a bit stiff, but I guess that's because of the treatment. Must be a manufacturer's end. When I realized the luck of the find, it had moved to the clearance table and I got about 3M for $15. The pocket lining, zips and reflective piping were the most expensive part of this jacket!!




I had trouble lining up the second side of zipper with the match points (collar seam & piping) on the first side (of course I didn't baste it first, duh) so I just picked out the stitching near those area, marked where they needed to match on the zipper tape & lined them up. Worked perfectly!




Here is the action shot "Biking!" where you can see the back of the jacket - I inserted reflective piping in the shoulder seamlines, the front seams and between the sleeve ends & cuffs.

Action Shot - Camping!

Here is an inside shot of the pocket lining. One great feature of this pattern is the large pocket. My other fleece jacket patterns have just a small pocket at the front. DH is jealous.




I split the left sleeve into 3 so I could insert a little strap for my MP3 player. Below you can see the pattern adjustment:

Below is the back on the dressform:

And the finished front -- Admire It now !!!

Riviera Annisette Top Variation

Here is the newest version of the Hotpatterns Riviera Annisette Top in a lovely soft Navy jersey with rayon and lycra or perhaps modal and lycra that was part of the manufacturers ends from Pink Tartan sold by Fabricland.

I omitted the bottom band and slightly scooped out the front neckline more. Oh, and I didn't sew the back panel backwards like the striped version (not that anyone could tell!)

2009 Resolutions - how'd I do?

Time to take stock of my 2009 sewing plans - here are my resolutions and results from last year:
1. Sew with a plan whenever possible. Kinda sorta followed this. I think this is a work in progress that gets interrupted by life & the fact I can't sew an entire wardrobe in one season!
2. Add some trend to my wardrobe. I did sew a few trendy tops. I think this is also accomplished by accessories & jewellery, which I did buy more of this year, particularly necklaces & belts.
3. Sew a coat. I haven't had a nice winter coat in ages. I think this will be my first project for 2009. Done! I have also purchased more boiled wool for another coat.
4. Use my Burda Magazines more. Not so successful!!
5. Exercise more. We eat pretty well (both my husband and I love to cook) but I definitely need to compensate for the delicious food and wine we enjoy. OK on the excercising, could still add some more. Would like to drop 10 lbs or so this year!

2010 Resolutions:

1. Buy less fabric. I have a TON of fabric. Oh, wait I already bought some this year. And I need some supplex for pants. Can we start in February???
2. Use my Burda Magazines more.
3. Drop 10 lbs.

Maybe I can achieve only 3 if I am very very good!

Happy New Year!

Butterick 5328

Yes, I have been sewing. December was a whirlwind of Sewing for Others, Xmas PJ's for the kids, workout pants for DH, hemming some drapes.

In September I made the fabulous Butterick wrap top from some stretch cotton with woven stripes. I don't like the hanging hemline at the bottom, I think I will sew in a snap to keep it even. You definitely need to put in a hook and eye at the neckline to keep it in any way decent!

In November I turned 50! Yikes!!

Cool Silkscreened label from Marcy Tilton!!

Hotpatterns 1021 Riviera Anisette Top from the back. I took in the sides to the hemline to give it a bit more shape for me.

Here is the front view with my collapsed neckline due to poor slouchy posture, although I do have to say the neckline is higher than shown on the pattern envelope

Here it is on my dressform with the neckline looking perfect.

Here is my latest top, I wanted a higher neckline top to show off some necklaces I have been given recently. I love the boat neckline silhouette, but always have problems with the front collapsing due to rounded shoulders & slouchy posture. This is a wearable muslin made from stash remnants. I like the stripes (just like the pattern, how creative :-) ).

Next version I will cut the front yoke narrower in the centre by about 1" and scoop out the front to be a bit more like the pattern illustration. I already extended the back shoulder seamline for the rounded shoulder problem. Note to self: stand straight!!

Next projects, another one of these in a nice solid Navy jersey, trouser-cut jeans and Simplicity Cardi-wrap before it goes out of style!!

The solid navy for the next version is a lovely silky jersey from Fabricland. They had a manufacturers buy out of fabric from Pink Tartan, an expensive Canadian label and I scooped some heavy gunmetal rayon silky doubleknit, some grey print tissue knit with a stylized Mackintosh rose pattern and some nice silky plain jerseys in white and navy. All for $3/m. Love a bargoon!!

July Sewing Projects & Miscellaneous

Simplicity 2554, View C

So far this month I have drafted a pattern based on a Hot Patterns pattern (basic trouser pants) for a wider leg dress pant with slight flare and side seam zipper, facings and no pocket. I made a muslin in a drapey ottoman weave polyester. Happily it is wearable and now can be the base for a pair of pants in a nice pinstripe (fabric just as cheap, but nicer! and basic black!!).

Luckily DH is away for a few days so I have had a few self indulgent sewing/shopping, evenings. I only bought ONE piece of fabric (stripe shirting at fabricland), one on-line pattern. Shopping my stash I found this gorgeous print that co-ordinated with my wearable muslin.

It is a lovely burnout rayon jersey tie-dye print purchased from the classifieds on patternreview.com -- I think the original origin is the now defunct fabric store from Textile Studios. It is very drapey, but stable and quite delicate. It was a perfect match for Simplicity 2554, view C and also fits my sewing goal of sewing more trendy items! Yay Me!!

The fabric was beautiful to sew. Because it was delicate, I chose a serged finish on the ruffles. Glad I did, as I needed the length (sans hemming) to form the cap sleeve. I think a cover-stitch hem would work as well. Choosing two colours of tan for the thread was a happy accident, but helps blend in with the colours on a print!

Here is a detail of the underarm gussett. This is NOT a one hour knit top pattern! Be prepared to gather the ruffles, baste them in place and pick out the basting. Anyway, I think it turned out cutely, no?

Besides sewing, I took a day off and took my sons to Canada's Wonderland. I go on rollercoasters, but my stomach (or inner ear) can't take the spinning rides any more! Sucks to get old!! Sorry abut the sideways pic above, but it is the newest coaster there, the Behemoth. DS #1 (13) went on it 3 times! I went on it once. 70ft vertical, you hit 77 kph in the first drop, with a great view from the top.

What's been happening in May & June?

This months been busy, but I did manage to get some sewing done...pj's for my step-daughter and Simplicity 2599 which is a knock off of an Anthropologie top that I liked - yes Anthropologie opened a store in Toronto!

Our first wedding anniversary was June 7, we were in London, Ontario for a friend's birthday, so we both got tatoos to celebrate, here I am getting mine -- the guy did it really quickly but it turned out well, it's a little sketch of a white pine tree.

And some relatives came from Wales to visit here, they came for a BBQ to our house. Add onto that a wild weekend in Wasaga beach for volleyball and it's a busy start to the summer!

I can't believe its been almost a month

Handsome Hubby on a Portage - full pack, Nikon in hand & Canoe on head, a truly talented man!

Burda WOF 3-2009-109

Since my last post! Here is my latest project, which I hope fulfils two of my sewing goals, to sew from BWOF (Burda World of Fashion) and make something trendy! I'm happy the way the fabric compliments the pattern, and the contrast between the front band colour and the blouse bottom.

My sons came back from a weekend in Montreal with their Dad, in which they were charged with hunting down a La Mia or Patrones -- and they came back with the latest issue of La Mia Boutique (the Italian verison of Burda), Not cheap at over $14 Cdn, but very high fashion, some great detailed pants -- will try and post pics later.

As this was a long weekend, and my hubby was on a volunteer camping trip with his high school teacher friend it was Sue's indulgent weekend of fun! Going to the gym, finishing this top, a trip to the fabric store & snoop shopping at Anthropologie (as far as I know the only Canadian store opened in Toronto). I found about 3 things that I have seen patterns that are very close and took some pics in the changerooms.

Here is my latest project, Christine Jonson Woven Pants #1010, flared version. The fabric is kind of nasty, it stretches out and doesn't recover that well and attacts all kind of lint! They are black, but I've lightened the photo to show the detail. I did have to take in the thigh to the knee quite a bit, as I wanted the long lean look on the pattern drawing, but they came out with too much ease and not enough flare. I'm happier with the fit now, but there is still a bit of gaposis in the center back. I moved the zip to the side.

What is up with back zippers in pants? Hard to do up and would poke you uncomfortably!!

Anyway they are servicable enough for work. The shoes, they are killer, though -- I scoured for them at Payless last fall. The lightened photo shows them as green, but they are grey patent with snub toes and big buckles. The top is a seafoam blue/green, so the outfit looks nicer in person than in my bad photo.

I'm bidding on some nice leopard print pony skin flats and some Tory Burch knockoff flats on e-bay right now, which will both go nicely with these pants!!

New Look 6179

Above & Below New Look 6179

Inpirational outfit from http://www.myshape.com/

If you have never checked out http://www.myshape.com/ it is a great site for wardrobe planning. I think most of the 'artistic' trendy outfits are just gorgeous, and they show accessories for each one! (Of course I'm schitzo, I also love Michael Kors which is really classic stuff!)

Anyway, I have been using myshape for some inspirational outfits. Above you will see the inspirational photo and the finished top. I've been eyeing double buckled belts for a while and was lucky to find this one on e-bay -- its a knock off of a linea pelle belt which I snagged for $6.95 plus shipping!

This top is New Look 6179 made from crinkle poly with a beautiful faded patchwork in lovely soft colours of sage, terra cotta, soft turquoise and raspberry with small gold glittered dots. The lace insets are vintage crocheted lace from my stash which looked kind of tea dyed. The ribbon trim is also from my stash. Anyway this strays from my usual sewing with the embellishment, but is a step towards my goal of being more trendy. Its fitted enough to be worn without the belt.

I think my next projects will be from my huge stash of Burda mags!!

Simplicity 2938

Above you can see the interior seam finishes

Above you can see the neckline tucks...

Here it is accessorized with the necklaces I had on today...

Here is my latest finished project. I've had it on my list to sew for a while (see my fall wardrobe board). It's Simplicity 2938 done up here in a very light weight dupioni cross-dye which was a dream to sew. I think this would be even better in a drapey fabric like a poly satin.

This is a really quick project, I knew it would turn out nicely because oodles of people on patternreview have made it. The only change I made was to lengthen it 1", add the front ties (this was a detail from a Tory Burch top from Spring 2008) and to do a forward shoulder adjustment. I also substituted a facing for the armholes for the bias tape in the instructions. I've had bad luck before with bias tape flaring out at the seamlines. I just turned and topstitched it as you can see from the interior photo. I'm not sure about the ties, they look a bit long but maybe this way I can tie them front or back??

Feels good to have another project finished. Next up is a storyboard for Spring!

A friendly Barter

My friend Debbie took some jewellery classes recently, so I asked her to make me something. In exchange, I said I would sew her a top. As you can see she made me an absolutely gorgeous necklace with a leaf drop front.

I made her not a top, but an easy jacket from sueded moleskin in a lovely soft orange (the photo looks deep orange, but it's not) You can read the whole review on www.patternreview.com

Thanks Debbie, I love my necklace!!

Resolutions for 2009 Update:

1. Sew with a plan whenever possible: I'm working on a spring plan, I'm deciding whether to finish a couple of projects from the fall/winter plan first
2. Do some decorating/painting in our house: Have had DH fix a curtain rod for the rec room, need to hem drapes for that room. Sewed a little valance on the weekend for the powder room; had DH rig up some antique crystal doorknobs to use as some hanging hardware.
3. Add some trend to my wardrobe: Ohh, that's a good one, need to work on that
4. Sew a coat. DONE!
5. Use my Burda Magazines more: I need to use these to accomplish #3. I did buy a very nifty tool to help trace/cut out patterns!
6. Excercise more: we have joined a gym and are making use of it. Lost 7 lbs so far!

Activewear

Being tall, it's a drag to find clothes that fit, let alone activewear (don't get me started on performance shoes!!) Yes, you can buy stuff at Tall Girls for a fortune or on-line without trying things on. But the beauty of sewing is you can make your own, have it fit perfectly and save a bundle.

Here are my Kwik Sew longjohns aka 'basewear' -- I used powerdry from http://www.wazoodle.com/ a great Canadian resource for activewear. Too bad I couldn't find it in a lycra blend, but oh well. I made the leggings from KS 3455 which has the bonus of being a one-seam pattern as well as having a diamond-shaped crotch gusset for more movement. The top shown is from KS 3567. I also made the matching crew-neck top to the leggings (not shown). As you can see from the picture taken outside, they did a great job of keeping me warm! Total cost for the patterns/fabric was about $65 for two tops (which I can wear as workout tops) and the leggings, plus I have enough fabric to make another top.

I generally layer them with a cami, base layer and stretch fleece top and leggings then my bib overalls (which are cheapies and not that warm, but I was able to find them in a tall size) and my insulated North Face jacket, a fleece gaiter and fleece lined hat, fleece liner gloves and ski mitts. My feet generally freeze, but this year with only one layer of socks (more room for the feet, and I guess an insulating layer of air) they did much better.

I preferred the top shown to the other one. The other top has a wrap-around side seam which felt a little odd under a top with a regular side seam, but it was only a minor preference. I also experimented with a flatlock seam on the pants, which results in a butted seam. It looked like it was not very sturdy, but worked like a charm! I reinforced the gusset with zig-zag stiching at the corners as any corners with a serger are difficult.

In the future I will hopefully be able to get some fine fleece with lyra or powerdry with lycra and make another set. I was also able to easily adjust the pattern to my hubby's measurements and make a pair of fleece leggings for him that stopped at the top of his ski boots, as per his request which only took me a couple of hours!

Simplicity 2764

Well, here is my coat! I like the way it turned out and it was not that hard to sew. It is not the beautiful Burda coat on my storyboard, but has a similar collar line. I liked the retro match of the fabric and the pattern. I added interlining from flannellette, some extra interfacing and a lining from rayon kasha to give it some warmth as the pattern is unlined. You can read the review for the entire coat!

What I have been doing in Jan/February

• I was sick for an entire week, off work with the flu. My 9 year old had it as well. Yuk. But I did manage to sew a fleece pullover and a set of long underwear for a ski trip during this time. Will post reviews later. Oh and also a pair of fleece long underwear for my hubby custom made to only go to the top of his ski boots


• I went thrifting and among the finds were:

- Ladies Tilley Pants (to be cropped off in length for the summer) $7

- Great grey Old Navy waffle hoodie $7

- Boys clothes $10 for the lot: 2 longsleeved Old Navy/Gap t's, 3 pair of chino/khaki's that have various and sundry convertable zips

• Finished a winter coat started before Christmas


• Went skiing for a week at Mount St. Anne in Quebec with 9 other friends. We rent a condo at the base of the hill in February each year and my hubby and I cook for everyone. We go a week where the rental includes free lift tickets and night skiing. Everyone skiis and we generally play cards at night. It's about a 8-9 hour drive but each year we have a blast. And as we do the cooking, others do the cleaning!!

Today I fell in love with a pair of sandals at Payless. They are pictured above, but they are gorgeous deep turquoise and a really nice quality faux-suede. I was lucky enough to be persistant and after I dropped in to a few stores, found my size 11's. Cool! Unfortunately being in Canada, Payless does not ship to stores. Also, the shoes are more money, they are advertised on payless.com for $24.99 and were $39.99 here (but I had a $3 coupon).

At first glance they go with a great Donna Karan dress I made a few years ago and a crossover top and a cute spring sweater my Mom gave me for Christmas.

Hopefully I will be able to post pics/reviews of my long underwear and coat.

Shoe Lust

I love shoes and own quite a few pair. My husband opened up a whole new shoe wardrobe for me when he introduced me to technically specific outdoor shoes. My shoe lust is compounded by the fact that I own gianormous feet (size 12 M) so cute shoes are hard to find. My favourite budget minded sources are e-bay and Payless. The top photo is my favourite sandals that I got last year from Payless (maybe I can convince my sister to order me the pair of the same in bronze for this summer) The second pic is the fabulous sandals given to me by my sister for Christmas. As she lives in Atlanta, if she can find my size/style she can order them to the store nearby. Unfortunately, they don't have that service in Canada!

Sewing progress: currently in the works is my winter coat, Simplicity 2764, view E in a black and white birdseye mystery wool. I sewed the front tucks, cut out a horsehair shoulder sheild and taped the underarm seam to stablilze it tonight. Tomorrow will tackle the back. I want this to be a combination of construction for stability and a quick project, so I'm adding some stablilizers to the coat as well as lining it. Perhaps also adding a little interlining of some polar fleece in the upper back as well